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Hands-on SIHH 2014 Masculine IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Replica Watch

I have owned two IWC Aquatimer Chronograph replica models in my time and admit to having a soft spot for the masculine timepieces from Schaffhausen and, as such, I said I would reserve judgement until I had seen the models in the flesh.  Indeed my good friend, Frank Geelan, of MONOCHROME, provided a sneak preview of some of the models from the new IWC Aquatimer Chronograph replica watch collection, prior to the annual horology fair in Geneva.

Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “50 Years Science for Galapagos” Ref. IW379504 

A few weeks prior to SIHH, various watch replica brands revealed one or two of their planned new models to the press.

One comment I received from another friend via social media said he had seen the images of the models pre-SIHH and was not too impressed, albeit he confessed he had not seen or handled the product in person.Experience has taught me that despite the best efforts of photographers provding imagery for magazines and websites, there is no substitute for the “hands-on” experience of an up close and personal encounter.

Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Expedition Jacques-Yves Cousteau” Ref. IW376805

Indeed, my caution proved wise. In my opinion, the new Aquatimer collection is superb with Christian Knoop and his team creating an interesting range of handsome timepieces.However, the new Aquatimer range proffers more appeal to me, with the no-nonsense functionality typical of a Swiss made fake IWC Aquatimer diver’s watch replica and with its testosterone-infused design language, there are many models in this new range to like.

I liked the Mens Fake IWC Ingenieur collection last year and found myself busily tapping away on my computer keyboard, appraising their respective merits and, in some rare instances, perceived shortcomings.

This year’s collection

 

Some changes are incredibly subtle, such as the alternative font chosen for the word, “Schaffhausen”. Whereas other changes are very obvious, for example, there is a new model presented in bronze.

There are specification changes which span the range. These include the new external / internal rotating bezel and the IWC bracelet quick-change system.

Every year IWC launch a whole collection focussing on one family of models. This year, I was surprised to learn that IWC were revisiting the Aquatimer, as it does not seem long ago that the collection was refreshed and relaunched. The existing designs still seem modern and very appealing. However, having seen the new models, I can report that that the evolution has resulted in an array of enhanced aesthetics, blessed with sharper lines and subtle improvements.

Aquatimer Chronograph Ref. IW376804 

External / Internal rotating bezel

The terminology sounded contradictory but, all became clear when the technical types from Schaffhausen explained the system to the assembled press at SIHH.

Whilst the external bezel moves in either direction, clockwise rotation of the bezel does not move the internal bezel, only anticlockwise rotation influences the position of the internal bezel. IWC refers to this safety feature as the SafeDive system. This ensures that if the bezel is accidently moved during the dive, the indicated start time will be earlier than the actual time, preventing the diver inadvertently spending too much time underwater.

By turning the external bezel, movement is transmitted to a drive wheel, within the case, which, in turn, is linked to a drive pinion that meshes with the inner rotating bezel. The benefit of this design is that it allows ease of adjustment, courtesy of the crown, but keeps the perils of salt water and dust away from the internal components.

Aquatimer Automatic Ref. IW329004

IWC bracelet quick-change system

All models in the Aquatimer range offer a user-friendly quick change system, allowing wearers to readily exchange rubber straps for bracelets and vice-versa. I have previously seen similar systems on Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces and I am surprised that only a few brands have embraced this idea.

Aquatimer Chronograph Ref. IW376802

Moreover, all straps and bracelets are interchangeable between Aquatimer models. Whilst, I appreciate that the Aquatimer is a diver’s watch, I hope the marketing gurus at IWC decide to release a range of leather and, possibly, textile straps. I am sure the prospect of being able to alter the appearance of a cherished timepiece with a new strap or bracelet will appeal to many.

A few highlights from the new Aquatimer collection 2014

Bronze model

 

The Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Expedition Charles Darwin” is delivered in bronze. Rival brands in recent years have employed this material, but, whereas some bronze models can age quickly and be easily marked by finger prints, this is not the case for this watch replica from IWC.

It has sought a finish that will slowly acquire a patina. Moreover, IWC state the case won’t acquire a green, tarnished hue at some future point, typical of some bronze cases. My predilection for the showroom-fresh appearance to be maintained over time, means this approach sits more comfortably with my own tastes.

 

Aquatimer Chrongraph Edition “Expedition Charles Darwin” Ref. IW379503

Deep Three, the sequel

The Aquatimer Deep Two model has previously been reviewed on ESCAPEMENT. At SIHH 2014, IWC revealed a new model to carry on the legacy.

Aquatimer Deep Three Ref. IW355701

The Aquatimer Deep Three is delivered in titanium and features a depth gauge system similar to the Aquatimer Deep Two.

Whilst the diameter remains at 46 mm, the Deep Three is now 16.5 mm in height, an increase of 1.00 mm over the former model. The Deep Three is devilishly handsome and, courtesy of its robust persona, oozes masculinity from every angle.

The Deep Three has a maximum water resistance of 100 m. The former model, the Deep Two had a maximum water resistance of 120 metres. Neither timepiece could be regarded as having the most impressive water resistance for a diver’s watch. Nevertheless, as I often remark about diver’s watches, how many wearers wish to explore the darkest depths of the ocean?

 

Aquatimer Automatic 2000 Ref. IW358002

A perpetual calendar with a user-friendly display

Last year, IWC presented a perpetual calendar in the Ingenieur collection. It was the only model I chose not to write about, partly because I found the display too confusing and felt overwhelmed by the many details on the dial.

On the other hand the IWC Spitfire Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month, is one of my perpetual calendar models to leave the gates of the atelier in Schaffhausen. However, the new Aquatimer Perpetual Digital Date-Month is drop dead gorgeous. It is presented in 18-carat red gold, combined with rubber-coated titanium and whilst the case measures a colossal 49 mm in diameter, I found it sat comfortably on my wrist.

Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Ref. IW379401 

Conclusion

The Aquatimer can trace its lineage back to 1967 and it has been subject to an evolutionary process ever since. The latest iteration of the aquatically-inspired models is arguably my favourite to date.

Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Galapagos Islands” Ref. IW379502

I am seduced by the interesting dial options, various complications, the array of case materials along with robust design elements and, over the year, intend to review all of the Aquatimer models.

Furthermore, if you genuinely require supreme deep-sea exploration potential, IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000 copy watch with a highly impressive, maximum water resistance of 2000 m.

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